What you are looking to achieve

What you are looking to achieve here is the perception of long-legs, thereby slimming the figure. Pleats are acceptable but they are only there to help the larger waist. The best look is to slim down so that yellow dress shirt you can wear flat-fronted trousers without discomfort. Do not use the trouser pocket to fill with anything that disturbs the trouser line. It far more acceptable to use a gentleman handbag if you have anything to carry that would not fit in the pocket without being seen. Turn-ups are for double-breasted suits. They give weight and can make the fall of the trouser very dramatic .but only the slimmest, tallest male should go for this. Never have a turn up on a single breasted suit. Suit cloth comes in many weights and colours. Think in terms of usage. Light weights are fine for summer use and heavier (note I say heavier not heavy) for colder times. Medium weights are ideal for most temperate climates. It is fair to say that most gentlemen would get more wear out of a darker suit than he would a light coloured one. Ideally you should have a wardrobe with a selection. Suit coats should be kept on quality wooden hangers shaped to mimic the broadness of ttuxedo vest he shoulder where it meets the arm and fit all the way up to the sleeveshoulder stitching, hanging with a gap all the way around to allow the air to circulate. Trousers should b. e hung separately, waste down with purpose made trouser press hangers that grip the last inch of the leg cushioned by velvet. A bespoke suit is an absolute must. Bespoke, of course means made for you specifically and that means that you have to say exactly what you want the tailor to make. If it an existing style then it is in fact a custom suit. Bespoke will cost more than ff the pegbut should last and look good for many years. Do not think that any tailor will do. Just because the sign says quality, does not mean it will be, likewise, Savile Row or Jermyn Street is not shorthand for quality. There good and bad in every profession. Get to know your tailor before commissioning your suit. Look at what they do and ask them about their work and experi.122 ence. Do n man dress shirt ot be shy, remember you are the gentleman buying and, following the transaction, it will be you who will be the tailor best advert, experienced tailors know this. If your tailor does nothing more than allow you to choose the material and measure you, you are in the wrong place, so beat a hasty retreat. Any tailor worth hisyour salt will want to know about you, where you will be wearing the suit, what you keep in your pockets, and much more. Never wear a tired suit no matter how comfortable you find it. The traditional linen suit conjures up images of the Empire far flung verandas and that probably the best and only way to think about them. I don know what it is but, certainly the British gentleman, somehow, doesn really carry this suit off at all. Copyright 2011 Kenn Griffiths, All Rights Reserved. About the author: Kenn Griffiths is a writer, Former Soldier, Investigator, Undercover Operator, Survival Expert and founder of The Red Blooded Male Club. You are free to publish this article but do include this link fmml130120

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